Heatmolding of your heatmoldable inline or ice boots

An ice- or inline boot should provide sufficient support around the ankles. That is why many of these boots have a fiberglass or even carbon shell. The advantage of this material is that it is very stiff, yet lightweight. So they are very suitable for iceskating and inline boots! However, carbon also has a drawback. The boots are very hard around the ankle, and if the boot is not the right fit, pressure points and/or blister an occur easely. That is why many boots are thermoplastic: can be deformed by means of heat. It is important that this is done properly to prevent damage to the boots. Below we explain how you can do this best.

If something is unclear, you can always contact us by phone or email. We are also active on Facebook every day to answer all your questions. Feel free to send a message, but don't be alarmed if we also respond after closing hours or on weekends!

Be very careful with heatmolding Viking boots yourself. It is best to leave molding of this type of boot to specialists with the proper equipment. See tips for more information on this model.

#1 Put the boots in the oven

Open the zipper of the boot and loosen the lace. The lace does not have to go through the first 2/3 holes. Make sure the lip is fully forward so that the warm air “enters” easily. Put the shoes at max 85 degrees in a hot air oven. Regularly feel the ankle area if it has already become soft. The shoes are usually soft after about 15 to 20 minutes. This depends on the brand, one shoe becomes softer than the other. When checking the ankle, not only pay attention to the shell of the shoe, the shell does not always become soft, sometimes more the inside of the shoe. This is often the case with recreationally oriented shoes. This is the case with Luigino shoes, for example. These are made with the ProBack technology. In the back of the ankle there are 2 'cushions' that become soft. Bont's shoes also use a similar method, while Viking and Raps use thermoplastic material as layers between the carbon fiber.


Make sure the boots are fully opened, loosen laces and pull lip open.


Into the oven!


Nose of the boots facing the door.

#2 Heat molding your boot

When the shoe has become soft enough, you can gently bend the shoe on the sides and step in with your foot. It is recommended to wear a thin sock. The eyelets of the laces and buckles are very warm! Make sure that the shoe does not fold in when putting on to prevent damage to the material! Also be careful with glue edges, if the shoes get too hot they can quickly come off. Put on both shoes so they don't cool down too quickly. Then lace both shoes to the top. Strap on the laces, but not too tight. The buckle should also not be too tight. Sit on the tip of a chair. Do not put full weigth on the boots, this deform the boot's mounting blocks. Make sure to put your knees over your toese, just like in the skating position.

You can then 'knead' the shoes around the ankle joint (see tips for more). After about 10 to 15 minutes, the shoes have hardened and cooled down a bit. You can now take off the shoes.


Keep the shoes open and make sure they don't fold when you put them on.


Sitting on a chair, knees over your toes. Keep this skating position

Heat molding with blades attached

It is also possible to heatmold the boots with blades mounted. Make sure that the blades do not scratch and / or damage. Always check afterwards whether the blades screws are still tight, sometimes they want to loosen a bit by the heat.

Heat molding with inline frame attached

It is also possible to mold boots with a skate frame mounted. Get the wheels and axes from the frame and carefully place the shoes (with frame) in the oven. Afterwards always check if the frames are still tight, sometimes they come loose through the heat.


If you still experience pressure points after heatmolding, you can heat the boot again in the oven or with a hair dryer. The process can be repeated many times.

To properly mold the boots around the ankles it is helpful to have someone else do the kneading. This way you can focus on staying in the right position.

A special technique is required to heatmold the Viking Nagano Gold boots. This can best be performed by a skating specialist (like us ;)).

79/5000 A pressure point can arise in various ways. The most common are:

  • The foot has too much space, causing friction and therefore blisters.
  • The foot has too little space, which also causes blisters and annoying pressure points occur.

Use Footies/Anti blister socks to prevent pain points!

If you continue to experience problems, please contact us for advice. We have all the knowledge, and the right materials in house (such as a special nodule) by which we can deform the boot very accurately). We also have a vacuum machine to 'suck' the boot onto your foot. Our specialists can also apply an extra thickening donut around the ankle.

Never try things yourself, this will void the warranty. Always take questions to us.